Belay gear for multi pitch sport climbing reddit review. I plan on climbing some of the 5.

Belay gear for multi pitch sport climbing reddit review If youre planning on doing multipitch, you have to consider what you will do in a scenario where you have to bail mid climb. now, the leader has either built an anchor and has you on belay, or is currently looking for the anchor. But pure sport multi pitch routes are super rare and will usually be mixed/trad lines, so the progression usually is: single pitch sport > single pitch trad > multi pitch trad Jul 30, 2019 · The updated Petzl Grigri drops the \”2\” from its name and adds welcome improvements to the popular assisted-braking belay device. PROS: Great for belaying a second on multi-pitch climbs, accommodates single or double ropes, good value. Belaying from the top of a pitch then leading the next pitch Belaying from the top of a pitch then seconding the next pitch Seconding a pitch then leading the next pitch Seconding a pitch and seconding the next pitch And then all of the equivalent situations for rappelling, so eight in total. But as you climb, you'll gain experience and wish you had slightly different gear. A "cheap" harness is generally still good - I use a Mad Rock one that cost like 60 dollars with a locker, belay device, and chalk bag. So our idea is to "kiwi-coil" the 30m. If you're doing sport multi pitch you don't need much else than some slings/cordelette, something to belay a follower from above with, and some extra lockers, really. 3 ounces (235 grams), it adds noticeable weight to any climber. Familiarize yourself with what a two bolt belay looks like, and how to belay off the anchor if needed. 1. if you hear it, take them off, put shoes on, break down anchor once slack is taken. But on the plus side no crowds! I haven't climbed in Colorado much but I am really loving Washington's granite crags. Discover how to manage transitions, communicate effectively, and stay safe on vertical terrain. 7 that you could probably do with a rack of nuts. Get a device with autoblock mode for multipitch. Simply girth Aug 20, 2019 · The Anchor System comes in two lengths—72 cm and 100 cm. And yes we are scared of falling. 10a). But I want to learn as much as possible now while I have the reading time. And we (partner and I) quickly realize that we prefered ATC for multi-pitch crags and Grigri for single-pitch sport routes. Never placed a cam or a nut in my life, but I've been climbing about 6 years, sport climb competently in the . Otherwise I would pick up a belay device with an autolocking guide mode (atc guide, reverso, pivot, megajul, etc. The guide takes a little more effort to control speed on rappel (at least for me @ 200lb I usually go with a pre-tied quad on 7mm cord for belay stations with two bomber bolts. Like many aspects of climbing, it’s a trade-off. The 5th gear loop on the Small size was also basically useless since it was overlapped on either side by the two back gear loops. Extra Climbing Gear You’ll need two anchor kits for a multi-pitch route. See full list on outdoorgearlab. I have experience on single pitch trad and some experience on simple multi pitch trad climbs, but I’ve never led more complicated, longer trad climbs. ). It seems the combination of a lack of immediate lock up and significantly reduced friction makes it less suitable. We’ll cover the basics of what you need to get going: how to prepare, what gear you’ll need, the step-by-step process of multi-pitch climbing, and other logistical issues. 11s and boulder V5ish. This combination of functions makes this a great quiver-of-one device, whether you are using it for single pitch, multi-pitch, ice, or even gym climbing, where an assisted braking device is often required. That’s 2. The molded gear loops are easy to clip, and while they won't hold enough gear for most trad climbing, they hold plenty of quickdraws and associated belay and rappelling gear for multi-pitch sport climbing. May 1, 2025 · This feature-rich harness—which includes two belay loops, seven gear loops, and a rear haul loop—would be overkill for sport climbers, but trad and multi-pitch climbers may still appreciate the features and the comfort of the Dome. . They either use moving parts (e. Pros: Light, compact and easy to use; Compatible with single and double ropes and a variety of rope diameters; Doesn’t twist or kink rope; Cons: Can be slow at rappelling Apr 27, 2021 · In practice, I think the GriGri is often still worth it as a multi-pitch belay device. However, remarked Anthony, this claim only holds up if you have a soft master point, like a sling tied with an overhand on a bight. 5mm to 11mm. A buddy is gonna do some easy multi-pitch sport climbing with me this weekend and I would like to have an idea of the steps involved. May 20, 2022 · But the thing about climbing quickly is that it’s not necessarily about the climbing—it’s more about doing everything else efficiently. The 5th loop holds all of my nonsense gear that I carry for non climbing/emergencies. As the follower: belay leader. Jan 13, 2022 · The girth-hitch masterpoint at an ice-screw belay, using a 120 cm sling. 10mm is certainly “safer” but that minimal advantage is not worth all the faf you’re gonna experience. Ditching the “2” in their iconic belay device’s name, Petzl has updated this assisted-braking classic by expanding the range of ropes it can accommodate: from 8. listen for off belay. Are there good… Getting comfortable with such things like multi-pitch sport (to get into the mental headspace), single pitch trad (need that gear knowledge), multi-pitch trad with bolted anchors (last step before going for completely trad). A tube belay device with guide mode does it all, belays, top belay, and rappels. , Wild Country SRC) to apply braking force to a rope Ask belay to watch me from first bolt to second. Lead up, build your anchor, and secure yourself to the anchor. Keeps the front 4 loops clear for cams/nuts and slings while I climb. ) and start practicing top belay on single pitch sport routes (you lead, build anchor, bring up follower, and then both rap off). Even if you’re only climbing 30m per pitch you still gotta lug that thing up and down, and weight adds up quick on more exposed/remote climbs. This weekend I am climbing my first multi pitch, a route called Whymper in the Blue Mountains of Australia. keep them on until you are at the end of the rope. Hey, I‘m looking for a shoe that’s made for single pitch rock climbing. The home of Climbing on reddit. Apr 14, 2020 · Belay glasses were a game-changer in reducing “belay neck” and making extended sessions almost pleasant. Was not easy. if you dont hear it, keep them on belay. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Thank you guys in advance :) Posted by u/downvote_tryhard - 1 vote and 5 comments Dec 5, 2024 · At 8. 7s aren't that different from multi-pitch routes at that grade- you're just climbing up a ladder/staircase for longer on a multi-pitch. 2) trad multi pitch to get comfortable placing gear. When you're up: That's me, on belay, unclove, unclove, climb. While we really love multi-pitch climbing, we took these devices out into every environment we could imagine, including the gym, single-pitch sport routes, alpine routes, and multi-pitch climbs. The Sewn Anchor System is one of those things you probably didn’t know you needed until it existed—a self-equalizing, self-adjusting anchor system for two-bolt (or two ice-screw) belays on multi-pitch climbs. Any tips as I get prepared for the weekend? I'm getting a bit nervous/excited. I've owned and used both quite a bit. Extra slack gets added to the system and I decked and sprained an ankle Following partner up easy (5. It's a 5 pitch sport climb rated 19 (5. Besides, I only own one grigri, so it never appealed to me to learn this. There are many benefits. On the matter of fixed-point belay, guides from AMGA, IFMGA, ACMG (Canadian), ENSA (French guide school) and DAV (German) has recommended munter hitch or tube style device, and recommended against the use of Grigri bc of less rope slippage, and potential increased force on the top placement. Grigri doesnt have the flexibility for rappelling that a tube device has. I've already researched it a bit, but I'd just like one more point of reference. Related, though, you can practice a lot of multipitch skills on single pitch climbs that have good anchors at the top. Multi pitch climbing allows higher climbing that exceeds the length of your rope by going up one "pitch" at a time, stopping at belay anchors in between. I recently got into climbing 2 months ago so I‘m kinda overwhelmed by the variety and opinions on shoes. Mar 16, 2011 · For long-suffering belay slaves, the assisted-braking belay device has been one of the most welcome gear innovations of the last two decades. When swinging leads on a multi-pitch route, the belay transitions are often the biggest time suck. Jun 18, 2024 · A complete ‘do it all’ harness that has all the features you would need from a day out sport climbing on your local crags to multi pitch alpine adventures. Sep 20, 2021 · BEST USE: MULTI-PITCH CLIMBING; SPORT, TRAD, OR GYM SINGLE PITCH. I don't LRS very often, and multi-pitch LRS even less than that -- but I do train on it as a self-rescue technique. 10mm also doesn’t feed smoothly through a belay device on belay and rappel. Stuff like prusiks, gloves, belay plate and a nanotrax+tiblock for rescue. So: Climb the first pitch like a regular sport climb. 23 votes, 36 comments. Sep 3, 2024 · The all new, super light harness from Arc’teryx fills a neat gap in the harness range. ROPE SLOTS: Two I can't find the source right now but one of the review videos mentioned it. Unlike traditional tube-style devices, these gizmos actually help the belayer hold a falling or hanging climber. Soooo dumb. Before We Begin, Two Important Things to Stress I had to learn multi-pitch climbing on backcountry Alaskan granite. , Petzl Grigri 2) or the geometry of the device (e. Don't let multi-pitch route deceive you. But there was still some craning. As we only need 40m for the multipitch, we don't really want to have 30m rope hanging around. Really though- single-pitch sub 5. Feb 12, 2024 · Tubular devices are ideal for multi-pitch trad climbing, gym climbing and sport climbing. I've heard that Arcteryx harnesses aren't too comfortable for things like hanging belays. Good stuff. So I'm going to go climbing with a buddy and we need a 70m rope for the sport climbing pitches. Posted by u/Peeze_Deeze - 1 vote and 8 comments The procedure is basically the same for sport or trad pro, just with gear instead of bolts. It does add a few ounces and require throwing an extra ATC on the back of your climbing harness. The goal is to have your team in synch, with both climbers working together to get the leader moving. (Photo: Derek DeBruin) Threading a Bolted Belay: At a bolted belay with the right hardware, such as rings or large quicklinks, you can get away without clipping any carabiners to the protection points, obviating the risk of unclipping and saving carabiners. Jul 25, 2024 · It is great for indoor lead climbing. But beforehand we want to climb an easy multi-pitch (5. CONS: Lowering is difficult in guide mode, not ideal with thicker ropes. true I'd look at some of the climbing/belay device packages they have. A lot of the complications you get yourself into with trad multi-pitch can still happen in sport multi-pitch. For example, if you start climbing multi-pitch, you may wish for an ATC-Guide, which lets you belay directly off the anchor without hauling up the grigri. I tested the shorter one, using it on Eldorado and Boulder canyon multi-pitch, as well as to help with anchor placement and rigging while bolting new sport climbs (to clip into directional gear, anchor bolts, etc. Planning to step up from single pitch sport routes to multi-pitch sport + trad climbs. I plan on climbing some of the 5. PROS Lightweight Comfortable Medium is well sized CONS Dropping the back straps tricky We first featured an Arc’teryx harness way back in 2015, they were a revolution at the time with the amazing WST (Warp being the outstanding feature. Jan 24, 2025 · Master multi-pitch sport climbing with essential tips and techniques to elevate your skills. Then belay your partner up using a belay device with an autoblock mode on it (ATC-Guide, Reverso, Grigri works too). There is still a lot of complexity that people are unaware of in those situations. You may find a preference for a different type of quickdraw, or bigger biners, or super-light biners. Did a dumb slip on a slab section and face planted but didn’t tumble down the route. 46 votes, 34 comments. Clip, Clip, Clove, Clove, Off belay, Figure 8 in the middle for the belay. Other ABDs are much less cumbersome and more suited to multi-pitch climbing, not to mention the super-lightweight passive brake-assist devices on the market. LRS may expose you to more risks than climbing with a belay partner -- so don't go off half-cocked and get yourself AFU, OK? 3 days ago · Sport climbing, ice, multi-pitch free climbing Trad and big wall climbing: Dual belay loops, weight-bearing belay loops Get adventure news and gear reviews in your inbox! Make sure you pick up the latest edition of Climbing Anchors. Harness isn't bulky but holds a lot of gear and is padded enough to be comfortable on multi pitch. Essentially, Petzl has said the Neox is a specialized belay device for single pitch use, not a replacement for Gri Gri in all use cases. No longer: Pitch Six’s glasses, with an easy flick of a rotating lever, let you move between 60 and 120 degrees—perfect for overhanging climbs or to adjust on the fly as your climber gets higher. 7/5a max. The PETZL NEOX is a total redesign of the internal workings of a GRIGRI to produce a great assisted belay device that is perfect for paying out rope. 6-5. Jan 22, 2025 · Per Edelrid, the Pinch, for multipitch climbing, also allows “Attachment to the belay station in four different directions in 90° increments,” giving you guide-mode options when belaying from above. As such, we don't recommend this device anytime it has to be carried while climbing, like on multi-pitch or alpine routes. wait 1 min a lot of insane routes and scenery for sure. On long multi-pitches, it's wise to bring the following equipment in addition to everything you would normally take on a single pitch. The PETZL… Apr 29, 2024 · ⊕ Ideal for those new to multi-pitch anchor-building ⊕ Intuitive and strong (22kn) ⊗ A little awkward to carry. Apr 4, 2025 · The leg loops and waist belt are super comfortable while climbing, walking around the crag, or belaying your partner on their project. It's also really nice if the anchor is far back on a ledge (less likely for sport) and you want to extend the belay to watch your partner. My favorites (so far) : "Le Toboggan de la Corniche" 6a+/5c/5c+. 8 classics, like cat in the hat, olive oil, dark shadows, and other similar climbs. I do multi pitch and trad, I hang out all day in it when I climb, but have also taken tons of sport climbing falls in it. The reverso takes more effort to belay in auto block mode on thicker, stiffer less supple ropes. RIGHT!? I can't imagine anyone who uses and likes the Autana actually does anything more than single pitch sport. I am climbing with somebody that has a bit of experience with multis so I'm looking forward to an educational day out. Atc guide or reverso 3. We will review sport/trad anchors, learn how to belay a partner up after your lead climb, rope management, descend multiple pitches via rappel, and learn essential rescue skills when at height. I have a good bit of bolted multi pitch experience. What I'll add, and this is good for all climbing disciplines, is knowing some self-rescue techniques. 1 pounds difference across the full 60m. My only shoe is the La Sportiva Mythos as a multi pitch shoe but I want one that helps improve my climbing on harder single pitch routes. Super smooth with no locking off when paying out (once you get used to it) the NEOX is a great belay device for climbers who belay/climb long, modern pitches. Again: personal preference at its best :) Moreover, now I am checking the technical notice and Petzl doesn't explain the top-belay settings. com May 28, 2024 · Over the past decade, we’ve tested about a dozen different belay devices, and spent countless hours mastering each one. g. I have plans to follow a bunch of routes this summer with experienced and knowledgeable folks from the semi local climbing club, so I'm sure many questions will get answered with time. … Dec 5, 2024 · The Mega Jul is very affordable for a belay device with auto-block and assisted braking modes. Perfect for climbers aiming to tackle longer routes with confidence and precision. Unlock your climbing potential today! Ditch the grigri, get a tube belay device that has guide mode. Aug 28, 2021 · In most areas, multi-pitch climbing unlocks new cliffs and vast amounts of new terrain. When you're sport climbing, this does occasionally mean the first 3-4 bolts are ground-fall territory (there's tons of options here: bring pads, accept risk, have the lighter climber climb to bolt 4 and lower and trade off, etc), but when you're trad climbing, you can place extra gear to create friction (reducing the need for an ohm) or to stop There's a few multi-pitch trad routes in the RRG that are below 5. Once I get to the 2 bolts at the top of the first pitch: I need to anchor in. Tricky approach (downward scramble, rappel on a tree, exposed walk, rappel, rappel) but the best 50 meters of 5C of my life (and a funky first pitch starting a few meters above the see, your ropes will surely get wet). But it belays well from above, and multi-pitch is often where the GriGri’s safety and versatility really shine. Make sure you bring: - Two cordelettes/ long slings - At least six spare screwgates - Two belay devices There are some multi pitch sport routes in my area and I want to start climbing them so I’m looking for some tips on the additional skills needed such as belaying from a set of anchor bolts Jun 18, 2024 · A complete ‘do it all’ harness that has all the features you would need from a day out sport climbing on your local crags to multi pitch alpine adventures. Learn efficient belaying, gear placement, route planning, and stamina-building strategies. With the rock climbing season in full swing here in the UK we thought it was time to review a fully featured climbing harness. vetky nzg veof wdjbc axzdozb ttzwcwq gvpo irnj zbwk zhttu