Best length of cordelette for quad anchor reddit. Mike shows how to build a quad anchor with 7mm cordelette.
Best length of cordelette for quad anchor reddit I’ll use draws or slings, depending on the situation, or just clove-hitch with the rope itself. Before I move on to other uses of the Mini-Quad I feel the need for a disclaimer here. In my mind a prusik cord is 12" or so of cord specifically for the use of making a klemheist or a prusik hitch, commonly referred to as an autoblock, third hand, friction brake, prusik, and more recently a "hollowblock". The cordelette was the worst performing type of anchor at equalization out of all the types tested. In a cordelette set up, if there's any extra material going to one of your anchor points, and less going to another, it means that there is more stretch in the system on the further away anchor points, and less in the closer anchor points. Jun 7, 2024 · Rather than using a huge honker cordelette, instead you use a Dyneema sling; I prefer 180 cm. 5mm tech cord), a quadruple-length sling (240cm), or two 120cm slings. Tying a cordelette for a quad. Jul 11, 2016 · BoulderCharles wrote:The quad is great for bolted belays as it is fast, allows for some movement of the master point, and gives you more room in the master point. I slung my big bro with the bluewater titan cord. You can use it as a longer line to reach back to something as part of an Called the "Quad" and is supposed to be best compromise between equalization and non-extension. Attach 4 (or 5 if building anchor with gear) medium/small screwgate lockers in appropriate spots to connect to the wall and rope. The legs of a sling clipped to anchor points above, with the masterpoint locking carabiner. ATC in guide mode, Grigri clipped directly to the anchor, etc. If you do a redirected belay (i. 5mm tech cord) or a quadruple-length sling. The nylon cord was the best performing out of all the material types in unequal length cordelette. I leave the ends untied and incorporated them into the MP knot. A 240 cm sling can be handy for many kinds of anchor building, especially for equalizing three points of protection, orslinging around a tree. I use it for my cordelette anchors and chalk bag strap in case I need extra bail gear on a multi-pitch. But, dynamically equalized anchors really don't dynamically equalize in anything more than a 2-point anchor and, even then, equalize poorly due to clutch effect. 9 high tensile stuff for a lot of things, but anchor building isn't one of them. Thinking about replacing the normal cordelette/quad length sling with a 15' length of tech cord for multipitch trad. TBH, "If a newer sport climber learns only one anchor I'd much rather it be" one of these: 1x Quad Length (Grey) Nylon Sling, used mostly for basket hitches on trees. Jul 6, 2014 · On the other hand, my fairly substantial if still utterly unscientific observation is that inexperienced and some not-so-inexperienced climbers can suffer from cordelette-induced tunnel vision, building an anchor that will accommodate the rather limited range of a cordelette rather than constructing the best available anchor, whose placements 2 quickdraws are fine as a very short term anchor, like if you are rapping a multipitch or flying up an easy sport climb and swapping leads. Use a double-length sling or cordelette to create an anchor around a solid tree that’s at least five inches in diameter, firmly rooted in the ground, and alive. Wrap the sling/cord around the tree, match the ends, and tie a figure eight on a bight to create a master point. It has increased versatility. (Photo: Derek DeBruin) Or more specifically a ~20+ft piece of cord tied to itself, usually for anchor making. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. It's sold by the foot or in sections: 20- or 30-foot sections are common lengths. Mar 19, 2009 · thx for the replies. The only place o can see their functionality is in multipitch sport where you want a sound anchor to hang and belay off of. The prusiks should only be holding 1-2x bodyweight, not falls, and smaller cord is better for grabbing skinny alpine ropes. Just stick with the cordelette. I've found that the sweet spot is somewhere between 16 and 20 feet, depending on where you're climbing. Cord Materials - The quad will extend slightly should either anchor point fail. OP probably was taught the quad, feels comfortable with it, and might be unaware of different rigging methods. I have quad and banshee rig made of 7mm/11kN cord. com Jul 6, 2014 · 18-20 feet of cord for all-around use. My coil takes a bit longer to rack, but it deploys quickly. You typically set up a cordelette with 3 anchor points. e. Banshee is great for bringing up second when there's only two bolts at top but for TR I'd use only quad. Just make sure you’re checking the anchor every time you come up to it, or at regular intervals. It's more versatile that way: you can clove the ends to two pieces and use a loop in the center piece if you need more length (like a rabbit runner). I've read and heard great things about webbing and the same for quad anchors but I can't find anything for making a quad with webbing. Don't start over thinking your anchor systems. ), the anchor will get 1x the force of the falling climber. But try climbing on the slightly longer cord for a while and see what you like. long section of seven- to eight-millimeter Perlon accessory cord and use a double fisherman's knot to tie the cord into one big loop. I find a 240 makes a nice tidy quad when using two piece anchors and is long enough for most applications using 3+ pieces. Cord is useful for creating custom-length slings, such as a cordelette, that can be used in anchor construction or in friction hitches for rappels and aid climbing. For placements this far apart, you want quad length or longer cordelette to reduce the angle spanned between the widest piece and minimize multiplying the forces in the load direction. Accessory cord is traditionally made of nylon just like your climbing rope. I typically use double slings too, but use a munter + locker at the master point to reduce the amount of material needed. Once you’ve placed your primary anchors, the next step is to combine them with a sling or cord. See full list on climbing. It's great for a lot of anchor set ups because of it's stretching abilities. Usual bolt anchor is fine. Hey lots of the comments are harsh. After deploying the Mini-Quad it takes seconds to add the Black Diamond 1 C4 Camalot Ultralight and clip it to a leg of the Mini-Quad making this a 3 point ERNEST anchor. The difference in set up time between a quad and 2quickdraws is negligible, and the quad is a better TR anchor. Given the same length of cord (20ft), an equalette allows time to clip off of [up to] four primary placements, whereas with the cordelette you can usually only clip off three. Because the bunny ears style gives you a wider reach, you may find you can get away with a shorter length cordelette. Based on the reading I've done, it's recommended that if you use a PAS for belaying a follower, you want to tie in with something else (a sling, a quickdraw, whatever) to the 2nd bolt for redundancy. This simple setup meets SERENE, can change directionality, arms can be used to personally anchor i Posted by u/2N654Tog - 3 votes and 31 comments Dec 18, 2014 · Tree Anchor. The older style of belaying off the harness has the leader clipping a piece of the anchor to protect against a factor 2 fall, which could be near the maximum impact force of the rope (8-9kN), means that the clipped piece of the anchor is acting as a 2:1 pulley and can actually feel more force (1 & 2/3 maximum impact force due to frictional Best of Reddit; Topics; I most often use a regular cordelette, sometimes anchor with the rope. figure around a 30ft 7mm might be a good start, and those runners are something i havent thought of but seem like a nice option (although pricey). Edit. You will need 20-30 feet of 6-7mm cordelette 2 locking carabiners for the rope, I use black diamonds RockLock 2 locking carabiners for the hangers, I use the black Dec 16, 2019 · I am still quite new in the climbing world and have been trying to figure out the best way to set up a top rope anchor. This can shock-load the remaining piece(s). The home of Climbing on reddit. My prusiks are 6mm nylon. One more thing to note: belaying direct off of the anchor (i. Bulkier than 5. Mar 13, 2016 · It is real hard to equalize 3 piece anchor with a 48" runner and still keep the angle reasonable. A triple or quad length sling works just fine too. belaying with an ATC clipped to your harness, rope going to the master point, back down to climber), then the anchor will get Multipitch = quad with a quad length dyneema sling and more biners. It’s a good enough anchor. 1. If you double or triple up your cordelette and use it on a two bolt anchor you and your climbing partner will be fine, it's not gonna break. 5 m (15 ft) piece of 6 mm Sterling PowerCord. Mar 15, 2022 · Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5. are they both equally as strong? Yo you posted this a while ago but what exactly are the cons of making a quad anchor with a 120cm sling? Assuming that the anchor bolts aren’t too far apart and are pretty close together Reply reply Mar 3, 2025 · Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5. Clip 1 locking carabiner onto each of the 3 anchor points. Tie a big length of cordelette together with a triple fisherman. I think my rock anchor cordelette is 7mm and my rescue prusiks (for both rock and snow use) are 5mm. If you want a cordelette for multi-pitch, I'd recommend 7mm X 20 ft. Again, easily identifiable masterpoint and easy for the client to disassemble unsupervised. So then why do you need a cordellette to build a quad? Because a double length runner isn't long enough. ” He immediately thought I was talking about a cordelette or sling anchor that people typically use for a 2 bolt anchor (doubled with limiting knots making a master point with 4 strands). To make a cordelette, take an 18-20 ft. I only set quickdraws on the anchor if I'm going to lower and someone else is going to lead. im looking for something usable as well as to practice with, from setting up anchors to pulley systems to knots, etc so cordelette is a Mike shows how to build a quad anchor with 7mm cordelette. if I needed the anchor to hang lower, I would (as you suggest) untie the "Quad" and rig something else that hangs lower. It could be better. You can easily store this system on your harness. We’ll start with the quad as it offers better load distribution than the traditional Oct 24, 2018 · Cordelette vary in terms of length and diameter, but a textbook cordelette is “7 and 7”: about 7 meters of 7mm cord, tied into one large loop with a well-dressed knot. Sep 21, 2018 · Try tying it “bunny ears” style, with a small figure 8 or overhand loop in each end, rather than the standard configuration of one big loop. The ultimate strongest top rope anchor would be a quad made out of a standard cordelette 7mm is fine. In equal length legs it was the worst performing but overall it seems that the nylon is the best for a cordelette. Pre tied Quad for two bolts, or the same quad length dynema If you're gonna be climbing the route for a while on TR then use a quad. As such, I use the 5. Oct 29, 2023 · i’ve heard cordelette is more versatile & cheaper, but is it stronger as a quad anchor? does it last longer? 6mm or 7mm? 8mm???? for a sling, i’ve heard that for a quad you need 240cm of it. Your quad anchor could be a large length of cord (usually 7mm) tied in a big loop cordelette style, or the new school “mini quad” typically made with a 180 cm runner, as we cover in this tip here . Suspect lockers are bad anchor lockers unless you're belaying at the anchor. But if someone falls near the anchor with less rope to soak up the shock, and the anchor is less than bombproof, that 7mm elasticity could theoretically matter. would expect to use this with bolted anchors at this point versus setting up trad anchors. This is a static equalization anchor. Get a 20ft length and then pick any of the acceptable knots to tie the two ends together. Before guides, we all just anchored with the rope. Step By Step Guide To Set Up Top Rope Anchors With A Cordelette . Cord comes in diameters from 1mm up to 9mm, sometimes greater. I use a double overhand based on an a certified alpine guide a took a course with, but I recommend starting out with a double-fisherman to tie them together (sometimes I use a triple depending on my state of mind, and the founder of Bluewater ropes tells me he always recommends a triple for I would recommend building the quad, it’s my go to top rope anchor. Specifically the cordelette. 5 tech cord but more versatile. If you're only going to be at 2 bolt sport anchors, some people make a quad out of a 240 mm Dyneema sling. 1x Nut Tool (actually carry two, but I booty hard) 1x Rap Kit (ATC on AutoLocker, Hollowblock on non-locker) Quad is really useful solution for do-it-all anchor when weight or bulk isn't huge issue. . Reddit attracts a lot of know it alls. The cool thing about this anchor is that I am able to build it on the ground and quickly set it up at the top. Now me and a couple friends are getting into multipitch climbs and I want to know the best ways to build an anchor, belay, switch off, etc. Its intended use is as a replacement for a commonly used length of cordelette that is tied in a loop and used to build anchors with. There is a way to set you anchor after a lead as a quad anchor and then use the quad as a tether when you clean, but this can sometimes lead to difficult positions compared to a traditional Personal anchor system. For a Prusik I carry a bluewater 7mm VT Prusik. Edit: Can the anonymous AMGA Safety Captains explain the votes? Edit 2: This is if there is no sharp rock in the vicinity, and I use newer gear. For my shorter cordelettes, I use a 4. This provides redundancy in case one of the anchor points fails. I was out doing a private class with a guide and we were talking about something when I said, “Oh yeah, and maybe you could bring a quad for that. You can easily store either on your harness. 5m for this). Sep 30, 2019 · Use a quad anchor, and put two opposite and opposed carabiners on each pair of the quad strands. Mar 13, 2016 · I've never liked the 'Pre Equalized Anchor; AKA Cord-o-lette, instead opting for a version of the two-point self-equalizing, sliding X anchor backed up with a third independent anchor using sewn spectra slings. The two most popular techniques for doing this are the quad and the traditional overhand-knot anchor. Before the quad, guides used cordelette anchors. The big benefits of cordalette are that you can chop it up for v-threads, to leave behind on abseils and if you have a sufficient length make a sling longer than a 240cm (need > 5. The slings you will use for a top rope anchor will typically be 120cm, while those for a sling draw would be 60cm (although you are correct in thinking that Dyneema is the best kind of sling for this purpose). Cordelette Anchor: Using a cordelette is a very popular way to connect two, three or more anchor points to create static equalization. Best is to have 100% full time monitoring but that’s not possible. /5. For a more long term anchor you want locking biners and multiple points for tieing people in, hanging gear/rope, and general versatility. Wild Country seems to be marketing that sling as "the Cordelette" as in a name for that product. Although you can create both a 2-piece quad and a 3-piece quad from the same cordelette, I recommend using a shorter cordelette for bolted stances (those which usually have two bolts) and a longer cordelette for trad anchors. I prefer something I always knew to be called the "electricians coil". but then ive read some people saying that’s way too long & they use a 180cm fine to build a quad anchor. It is fast and easy to rig--and faster to break down-- than a cordelette. Both methods require a biner to attach to the harness, of course. Tie that loop into a quad. 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, used mostly for small anchors. I use a 6mm cordelette and it has taken plenty of falls from my seconder and its holding up just fine. 7mm is a very common standard for cordelette. After reading this article, I am seriously thinking about changing to the Quad anchor, don't get cordelette if you plan on trad climbing later, John Long is an awesome climber, 30 damn years ago, climbing has gone a long way since, cordelette is the slowest, most noob anchor ever, build your anchors out of slings, it will be much more versatile and faster in the future and getting familiar with this type of anchor in easy waters For double length slings (4'), anchor webbing and cordelette, many folks use a twisted rack. Nov 2, 2017 · In this example we have two solid pitons at the end of a multi-pitch climb. You distribute the anticipated load as best you can. In leading, that is definitely a big anchor, but I personally don’t really ever use a quad when leading/on multi pitch. Double it, tie two a figure 8 or overhand knots (with the stitching in one of the end loops), and then use two strands to make an anchor for both toproping and multipitch. For #1, it's true that statically equalized anchors don't equalize. I find myself using the cordelette less and less often and just making anchors out of a double length sling and maybe an additional alpine draw. So, it's kind of a wash. EDIT: And, BTW, I don't pretie my cordelette into a loop. Step 3 – option 1: Rig your anchor with a quad. Do any of you guys double… Jan 13, 2022 · 1) To construct a girth-hitch masterpoint, clip or thread cord or a sling through each anchor component and pull down on the rigging material to tension it, as you would when rigging a cordelette anchor. For gear anchors, the quad will be tricky as you usually have 3 pieces in your anchor (meaning you have to tie two pieces of protection together to end up with two clip-in points for your quad). This setup is for 3 anchor points. - Since the quad needs to be doubled up, it is difficult to equalize anchors where the placements are far apart. 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, tied into a small quad for bolts. By tying load limiter knots into the quad, at least 2 parts of the sling would need to simultaneously fail for the anchor to fail. But for side by side bolts like this, many people find it’s too long, a bit bulky, and hard to rack. The cordelette was a guide trick adopted by recreational climbers. 5. Jun 7, 2024 · Some people think this is called the quad anchor because it uses a “quad” length sling, or 240 cm. A single strand of dyneema sling is rated to 22kn, which is far stronger than any anchor needs to be, but dyneema strands can be cut by sharp rock. Best Situation To Use The Quad Anchor To equalize two bomber anchor points such as a two-bolt anchor. Traditionally this was a double fisherman’s, but a more modern method is a simple flat overhand. And yes we are scared of falling. As for a TR anchor, I'd worry with the use of non locking carabiners. Here’s I was practicing my sliding x's and wondered if there were any cons to doubling it up, as in clipping into two sliding x's. joiqcp irqkh nmyz cle kss brznw kddd zhgjpzh gya msgot