Alex megos climbing history First Ascent 9th May 2018: Alex Megos No pics or vids yet. 13b in 2007, his first 5. 14d onsight), this time with a first ascent of the long-awaited Red Project at Diamond Fall in the Blue Mountains, Australia. Bolted by Sonnie Trotter during Alex Megos' visit to the area after Sonnie realised that Alex was quickly running out of anything hard to try! Dec 7, 2016 路 The goals were: climb in a place I had been dreaming about visiting for nearly 20 years, experience the rich sport climbing history of the Frankenjura, drink coffee, eat cake, and find out once and for all how someone like Alex can get so bloody strong. May 10, 2023 路 Alex Megos’ journey began at Frankenjura, one of Europe’s top sport climbing spots. orgremus@climbing-history. <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www. Originally given 8B by Alex, but has since been upgraded to 8B+ by locals. Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade; Alex Megos: Lead | worked 2021. Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade; Alex Megos: Lead | worked 17th Jun 2014 Jan 4, 2025 路 Considered the hardest of the 8B trio, with some today considering it 8B+. Photo: Andrew Burr Agincourt is an 8c Sport route at Buoux in France. Photo: Andrew Burr Feb 13, 2025 路 Pinky Perky is an 8B Boulder problem (indoor). 15 as well as the second 5. Nic's suggested downgrade may be related to some frustration with first ascentionist Jerry Moffatt nipping in to also make the first ascent of Progress, a line Nic had put a number of sessions into. I gave everything I had, my arms and body couldn’t do more, but in the end I managed to clip the chain 馃コ [1] Jul 6, 2023 路 Since it was bolted by the American Ethan Pringle back in 2011, it took Alex Megos 9 years to achieve the first ascent in 2020, leading to some repeated ascent, and, of course, a subsequent downgrading controversy. Megos began projecting it King Capella is an 9b Sport route at Siurana in Spain. By 2012, he’d redpointed up to 9a (5. Dec 20, 2013 路 Until about 18 months ago, only climbing-news junkies knew Alex Megos, a 20-year-old from Erlangen, Germany. 32 entries on the list. 14c) in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge. As with all the hard stuff, feels ok when it goes. Date Time User Type Name Attribute; 1: 25th May 2025: 20:24:15: remus: ascent Pepa Šindel: ascent_style_id Feb 22, 2016 路 Climber: Alex Megos Route: Biographie (5. 14d, flashing three V13s and a V12, sending four more V13s and four more V12s, and polishing off a Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade; Markus Bock: Lead | worked 2000 Bibliographie was a big goal for me this year. Megos' contribution. Hubble is a route at Raven Tor in the UK's Peak District. Dec 27, 2023 路 While some of his greatest achievements have been on ropes (he made the third ascent of Alex Megos’s 5. youtube. Sep 6, 2023 路 Just a few weeks after taking third in the Lead World Championship at Bern, Alex Megos took a 12-day bouldering trip to Norway, where he climbed in Vingsand and Hell (yep: that’s the real name) and focused on volume, sending three V14s and a 5. Harder than Perky Pinky. Ben Moon made the first ascent of the full line in 1990 suggesting a grade of 8c+, making it the hardest route in the world at the time. Nov 4, 2024 路 Janus is an 9a Sport route. Oct 12, 2022 路 The Full Journey is an 9b Sport route at Margalef in Spain. Thor's Hammer is an 9a Sport route at Flatanger in Norway. As a project it was sometimes called El Touareg Blanco but after making the first ascent Alex Megos referred to it as Tuareg Blanco. The first time Stefano climbed to the chains of The Journey he was then able to go all the way through and tick the extension too. The route was bolted in 2009 by Ethan Pringle, and was first ascended by Alexander Megos on 5 August 2020. Then claimed as Yorkshire's first 8c after being reclimbed by Tony Mitchell without the sika'd hold. A 9b+ in my ‘local’ area, already with 3 ascents by top In the lifespan of a climber, it’s really good to do other things. 203 entries on the list. 14d) and pulled off a string of impressive flashes, including Pure Imagination (8c+/5. 15c) routes Perfecto Mundo in Spain and Bibliographie in France. Three sessions just to work out the first sequence. Aug 10, 2020 路 Last week, Alex Megos made climbing history by completing the first ascent of Bibliographie (9c, 5. Alex became the third person in the world to climb 9b+ with this ascent (after Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma). When [english] 6c isn't that hard anymore, and 6b is approaching a rest. com/watch?v=rBtscuiUJWY">https://www. Nov 10, 2022 路 Hangboarding is undoubtedly one of the most sport-specific strength exercises that you can do for climbing, aside from climbing itself. Nov 22, 2024 路 Tom Bolger: Lead | worked 5th May 2014 Mar Álvarez: Lead | worked 21st Aug 2014 Jan 18, 2025 路 En grande forme, Alex Megos réalise sa 5ème ascension d'une voie de 9ème degré en un seul essai avec "Mr Big" 9a à Margalef ! Aug 5, 2024 路 Ormen Lange is an 8B Boulder problem. A controversial ascent at the time. Third ascent. © climbing-history. 14d (9a) sport route with Estado Critico in Siurana, Spain. … The ultimate goal is to be able to climb 5. Notable Climbs. At just ten years old he was climbing 300m multi-pitches with his father. Nov 22, 2021 路 Megos has always maintained that his true climbing passion lies in his roots of outdoor climbing, making a number of impressive ascents alongside his competitive climbing career. 14d in 2011 with San Ku Kai in France. Aug 19, 2013 路 Alex Megos on Retired Extremely Dangerous (5. It is the second route of the grade ever, after Adam Ondra’s Silence. Alex Megos grew up in the Frankenjura area Germany and specialises in sport climbing and bouldering. Like many superstars, Megos started young (age 5) and quickly moved through the competition scene. The majority of climbing’s first 40 Olympians have competed at IFSC events for years, and come from nations with a long history of competitive climbing. Even if Céüse is very far away from my own natural climbing style, I was really motivated to go through the process. Megos made the first ascent of the route in August, establishing the country’s first 5. For every climbing enthusiast, this is a route to follow, you can be quite certain it will continue influencing the climbing world. This didnt see a repeat for nearly 20 years until Alex Megos repeated it in 2016 Being able to pass the boulder problem at the beginning from the ground for the first time and then climbing the 50 meter complete line was a physical and mental fight that I will never forget. Easier than Milk It. Repeated twice in 10 years—first by Stefano Ghilsofi in 2020 and then by Séb Bouin in 2022—the route has become “a real piece of history,” Megos says, though new beta makes it a bit easy for the grade. Dec 7, 2016 路 The goals were: climb in a place I had been dreaming about visiting for nearly 20 years, experience the rich sport climbing history of the Frankenjura, drink coffee, eat cake, and find out once and for all how someone like Alex can get so bloody strong. . The Olympic roster is packed with recognizable countries and names. Alex gives Mama Megos some love. Hangboarding’s transfer from off-the-wall training to on-the-wall performance is almost instantaneous, especially considering that improvements in finger strength will increase both maximum boulder and sport grade. In addition to the first 9a onsight, he also is one of the few climbers to send 5. These routes can be about more than just hard climbing with a high grade—they’re about history. com/watch?v=rBtscuiUJWY</a></p> First ascent. 9 sessions. Dec 11, 2021 路 Originally climbed with a sika'd hold by Nic Sellars in 1992 and named 'Justified and Ancient', a song by The KLF. Jun 25, 2021 路 Akiyo Noguchi, Janja Garnbret, Alex Megos, Adam Ondra, Nathaniel Coleman. Since Alex [Megos] did the first ascent, I was psyched to try something really hard from someone else here in France. Belayed by Stefano Ghisolfi. A 9b+ in my ‘local’ area, already with 3 ascents by top Jun 25, 2021 路 Akiyo Noguchi, Janja Garnbret, Alex Megos, Adam Ondra, Nathaniel Coleman. First ascent. 15 in life, not just on the rock. 15 sessions. 15a), aka Realization Location: Céüse, France Every once in a while, one route emerges as a collectively agreed-upon benchmark for the world’s strongest climbers. Jan 14, 2025 路 Tuareg Blanco is an 9b Sport route at Margalef in Spain. 11 climbing. He's famed for very fast ascents of hard testpieces as well as establishing some of the hardest sport routes in the world. com Sep 5, 2024 路 Established in 2012 by a then-19-year-old Adam Ondra, Change is generally regarded as the world’s first 5. For the majority of climbing history, a climber was a climber was a climber. Adam initially said 9a+ but later suggested 9a was more appropriate after new beta and some kneebars were found. Photo by Simon Carter. In the lifespan of a climber, it’s really good to do other things. Ben Moon:. 15c, Bibliographie), Bailey’s not new to the V15 and V16 level, with repeats of Pegasus (V15), Grand Illusion (V16), and Box Therapy (V15/16) under his belt. Alexander "Alex" Megos (born 12 August 1993) is a German rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. Fight Club is an 9b Sport route at Ravens Crag. 8/19/13 – Twenty-year-old German climber Alex Megos continues to add to climbing’s history (see the world’s first 5. In 2013, he became the first-ever climber to onsight a 9a (5. Alex Megos gets a grip on Fight Club (5. Alex’s long list of impressive ascents began to take off in 2009, with an ascent of Drive By Shooting (8c) in his local stomping ground of Frankenjura. Got any corrections? Send them to corrections@climbing-history. org | Contact remus@climbing-history. Nov 2, 2016 路 In short, they simply climbed. A fairly definitive list of onsight ascents of sport routes graded 8c+ or harder. Mar 7, 2025 路 If you want to keep up with Alex, you can follow him on Instagram, Facebook, his website, and YouTube, as well as podcasts like The Struggle and Jam Crack. A 9b+ in my ‘local’ area, already with 3 ascents by top Bibliographie was a big goal for me this year. 14b in 2009 (Drive-By Shooting), and his first 5. Tuareg Blanco is an 9b Sport route at Margalef in Spain. Climb Name Type Grade # Ascents Recorded Notes Exclude Reason; Keen Roof: Boulder problem: 8A+ 38: Keen Roof is one of the most popular hard boulder problems in the peak district, and in the UK as a whole, largely due to it's roadside location and high number of ascents meaning beta is easy to come by. It complements your climbing, and it gives you a different perspective, and then it makes you appreciate climbing in new ways. 15b in all of North America. Date Time User Type Name Attribute; 1: 7th November 2024: 08:14:57: remus: ascent Jan Hojer: climber_id Intermezzo XY Gelöst is an 9a Sport route. Feb 1, 2023 路 Alex Megos is best known as the first climber in history to onsight a 5. Le Cadafist is an 9a Sport route at Saint Léger in France. 15c (9b+) routes in existence, Perfecto Mundo and Bibliographie. Sep 26, 2024 路 In 2013, he became the first climber to on-sight (this means climbing the route first time and without previous attempts) a 9a (5. 14d) graded route. 10 sessions. Date is a bit of a guess. org. 15d). Das Pumpenhausen is an 8B+ Boulder problem at Porth Ysgo. Bibliographie is a circa 35-metre (115 ft) sport climbing route on a limestone cliff on the southern face of Céüse mountain, near Gap and Sigoyer, in France. 15b) at Raven’s Crag near Banff, Canada. In 2006 Alexander began training with the local bavarian team “Landesstützpunkt Franken” and later with “Bundesstützpunkt Sportklettern” in Erlangen-Nürnberg, where he met his coaches Ludwig “Dicki” Korb and Patrick Matros, who still coach him today. May 9, 2018 路 Alexander Megos. 14d), previously known as the Red Project. Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade; Martin Mobråten: Boulder | worked May 2013 This information is not definitive and there are likely to be many climbs missing. The line, located just right of Biographie in Céüse, France, was bolted by Ethan Pringle in 2009 and follows 35-meters of overhung limestone. 14d, flashing three V13s and a V12, sending four more V13s and four more V12s, and polishing off a Bibliographie was a big goal for me this year. See full list on climbinghouse. 15 and has established two of the five 5. Alexander began climbing at the age of six. There is some ambiguity with the name. Intermezzo XY Gelöst is an 9a Sport route. He has made the first free ascent of some of the hardest sport climbing routes in the world, including two 9b+ (5. Nov 30, 2021 路 After the crux, it’s a pumpy 8b+ climb, with a few more awful rest positions, then a 3-move bouldering problem before pulling onto the final slab section made up of easy-going 5. In the early years, climbing star Alex Megos had his first 5. org Third ascent. 15c sport climb. A haven renowned for its pockets and short but intense style, it has formed some of the most notable climbers in history such as Wolfgang Gullich.
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