Sunlu silk pla settings reddit Now at first it seemed to be fine. I can't even get it off the bed in one piece because my sharpened spatula just slips between loose layers. I am just curious as to what temperature people are printing their Sunlu PLA Plus with. I've since purchased eSun and Sunlu and Hatchbox and all of them have been garbage when compared to any of the ZiRO PLA / PETG / TPU I've purchased. 5 and am still getting nozzle jams. Sunlu silk copper. ： 205-215℃ Tolerance： ±0. I could probably go faster with the settings. Look into esun filament, never tried it but i have heard that is almost the same as sunlu. I bought some SunLu Red Silk PLA a short while ago, and no matter what settings I try, it suffers from delamination in the final print (layers do not stick together and the print is very fragile, often peeling apart with barely any provocation). Thoughts? Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. ) I just used the Generic PLA preset. Hello all. The Sunlu regular PLA is fine tough. Temp is 225 with 60. 4mm stainless stell nozzle on the PEI plate. 034 for me, and SUNLU PLA+ Silk came out at 0. It is distinguished from glossy and matte PLAs by having an intermediate level of reflectiveness. 6 at 190°C with great results When I ordered the printer I also added a double pack of the Rapid PLA, and it was cheaper than the PLA I used on my Ender 3, so I always order an amount that gives me free shipping. Ender 3 pro using Sunlu gold silk PLA, 0. 27mm Extruder 210C, platform 50C Base print speed 60mm/s, travel 80mm/s First layer max speed 5mm/s, first layer ma Idk why you're being downvoted, there are lots of great high strength options compared to PLA. In my experience "silk" or "shiny" or whatever else you market it as is only good for decorative/display prints. I just picked up this Sunlu Silk PLA and the layer adhesion is so bad I can easily break it apart in my fingers. For Sunlu PLA Plus, I started with the Bambu Basic PLA profile and changed the following on the "Filament" tab. Any suggestions are welcome! Late to the party here. Here's some pics (they look shiny-er IRL): TTYT3D. You are supposed to print Silk PLA cooler anyway. Impressive result, just a slight stringing below 210°C, everything else doesn't seem to matter Hey, month late but same problems. Printed a calibration cube at 205 and retraction at 4 and it printed fine but the more detailed models are running into trouble 30 odd minutes into Silk pla should really be little to no difference to normal pla, I print all mine at 210 and 50-60 bed temp depending on temp of the room. Nozzle Retraction Settings Additional settings or relevant information is always encouraged. I needed a good reliable but reasonably priced black PLA for a large print job that used up the whole spool, I got Anycubic. CC3D Silk PLA (Silver) (Dried in SUNLU filament drying box ahead of time, and while printing) 230 C Hot End 50 C Glass Bed Direct Drive Ender 3 Satsana Hot End with stock cooling I don’t use the app so not too sure. That battery dispenser you made looks super good. I printed some big square prints with it and it had no issues running at 200/60. It prints slower with those settings, FYI. 15 more degrees are too many degrees . 4 nozzle and gear. This stuff is just GARBAGE. PolyLite PLA Pro = More impact resistant than regular PLA while still being quite stiff. Some is 1 year old stored opened without a bag. I’m really struggling with this gold silk PLA+ from Sunlu. Same with Sunlu but maybe less consistent now (meta is their pla plus brand I believe). You can also change the settings for the bed where the filament is in bambu studio but that’s less likely to be the case you’d have to click that tiny little button and change it. Complexity of print. Esun silk pla prints just fine with the same settings, sunlu doesnt and causes heat creep on longer prints. They have a web page with settings as well as PDF download with specs and settings and they have a cooler temp. Sunlu Silk PLA Image Share please ensure this is transparent in your comment and always adhere to Reddit's 10% self Looking for infor on Jayo PLA+ with Bambu printers. Linky for those interested. Pretty well left all other settings default, including print speed. Hello There! I have tried a couple silk PLA’s in the past and have had mixed experiences with them. Had minor unload issues with yellow silk PLA (and only that color), but dropping nozzle temp by 5C in Generic PLA profile fixed that. smiles says, the generic settings for PLA usually work well. Unfortunately this filament seems to keep on clogging my nozzle. If necessary, you could add a modifier in the slicer, to cover just a few layers above and below the join to print hotter. Oh I bet copper one is awesome. Anybody that brings up PLA having a higher UTS compared to PETG or ABS, go print a kid's toy and give it to a three year old and we'll see how strong PLA is. I would love to hear if there are any particular brands (or colors) that you have had luck with. The supports always fail and crumble and I end up with a blob. 17 layer height . Silk(PLA+) is a type of polylactic acid (PLA/PLA+) filament that has a slight sheen or luster, reminiscent of silk fabric. I love how this came out. All my other non-Silk PLA/PLA+, different brands and even SunLu don't clog. I’m using it to trial different settings in Bambu studio and basically play around with it until I feel comfortable in troubleshooting poor prints and allowing me to try different nozzles and build sheets. How do I choose the best SILK PLA(PLA Plus) filament? Silk PLA and tuning. Another curiosity is that during the filament load (230ºand 100% extrusion), after purging, the silk filament came out and expanded to a 1. Both filaments have also printed well using a Copperhead hot end on one of the Creality machines. 49 votes, 14 comments. PolyTerra PLA = PLA blended with biomaterials, reducing the amount of plastic used while giving it a nice, satin matte look. Solved Share Needs a bit of clean up and sanding prior to paint but looking good. 8 mm/s normal The pyramid is as as good as the one printed with Polylite PLA Pro, not bad for a silk filament at all! Sunlu silver silk PLA prints very well, although Sunlu regular plain PLA has sometimes been second tier stuff. I haven't used that exact silk pla but others that I have used have given me issues in the past. The SUNLU filament dryer with 10% discount as a new buyer or use discount code : 1S4TY607RP. Obvious variance between spools and printers aside Aug 12, 2023 · Hey guys, i just bought the Sunlu PLA Meta filament, and i was searching a bit to see which configs people used but i’m having a little hard time to find them. 75mm Print Temp. 042. They also have different types of filament: PLA, PETG, PLA plus, PLA Rainbow, PLA Silk rainbow, PLA Silk, PLA Marble, Woord, Carbon Fiber, ABS, SPLA and TPU and all are of SUNLU. Sunlu PLA/PLA+ silk, regular and transition "rainbow" Sunlu PA (nylon) Devil Design PLA, including metallic Esun PLA + has the best color depth IMO but is EXTREMELY weak in comparison to Sunlu PLA + and Meta after being printed and sitting around gathering moisture for a few weeks or months. Got a new spool of Jayo/Sunlu Filament PLA+ First attempt was a temp tower with the speed settings of Creality Print. Printing with a P1S (and an Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro) with hardened 0. I changed maybe 20 defaults. Hi everyone. Basically it was having layer issues where there would be slight differences and was either under extrusion and twice with their red PLA + I had to throw away the prints as they were brittle and layers were separating. With these settings I had been getting good prints with minimal stringing. The only thing that has made a difference is lowering the print temp down to 180 C; Sunlu recommends 200 - 230 for the regular PLA. Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. Looks great but layer adhesion is garbage even at 230⁰C. Printed temp tower(s) (190-240) and the layers just don't stick together. Never had any adhesion issues related to the filament, clogs or breaks. I was doing 225-230 nozzle and 70 on the bed for the first layer then 215 and 55-60. I've used Sunlu PLA (bought from Amazon) and all of my prints came out fantastic. It does not matter what the settings are for extraction, combing, or z-hop. This mode is not in slicer, but in the print settings. I am currently printing at 230 Celsius even though the label says to print between 205-215 Celsius (at those lower temperatures the clogs happen even more often). I have tried so many different settings my head is spinning. Yep, Ive used Sunlu with zero issues, I use the Bambu PLA preset. Any of these brands will work fine. Apr 26, 2023 · Just bought Sunlu PLA Silk filament and didn’t see settings for their product, contacted them for there info. If I change to the Bambulab official filament everything works perfectly. 5 mm/s initial, 0. Expand user menu Open settings menu. I really love the PolyLite PLA Pro, it feels very premium, especially the metallic one I have. Both silk filaments needed a 2% increase in extrusion multiplier settings, not printing much silk I'll just guess this is normal. Another fine filament is Geeetech. Red comes out more rosey and copper comes out like peach. 200°C Extruder, 66°C Bed, 0. I print mainly Sunlu PLA Silk and according to the Sunlu's website here are the specs: Model : Silk Diameter Format： 1. I’ve used the SUNLU PLA+, but not on my X1C yet, it’s nice stuff. com Nov 26, 2024 · I use Sunlu mostly, on default settings with Creality Print, though I will up the wall count from 2 to 5 for a little more strength and for brass threaded inserts. By manually calibrating my eSUN pla silk I could save a profile for that particular brand. Contours look a lot nicer than flatter Any chance you can share your settings? Having issues printing SUNLU PLA with my Qidi X Max 3. Between the three prints, I have had two clogs on my ender 3 pro. 27mm initial layer, 0. Prints looked immaculate. You might need to adjust retraction settings slightly if there's an increased tendency to oozing due to the raised temperature, but I usually don't. 6 nozzle, latter is abrasive), and matte colors (the finish is nice if you want that specific one, but I've found the matte filament to I’ve been using Sunlu PLA meta since I don’t have the membership, relatively inexpensive and it’s available quick from Amazon. 4mm nozzle), layer height to 0. The wood pla was flowing a lot more than normal pla. I print most PLA at around 200C, but 215-220C for silk. I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. The plus kinda sucks in my case bc warping. Those things didn't work for me, just gave me terrible underextrusion, layers curling at edges, woeful layer adhesion and prints getting dislodged from the plate was just a few of the issues. 18mm, first layer . I needed metallic bronze silk PLA, I got CC3D. Plate adhesion is about the same and Bambu pla. I tried Dual color/rainbow/silk PLA with the same settings. And “Generic PLA Silk” runs some of the fans at 100% for some reasons. Feb 27, 2024 · This results in eye-catching prints ideal for projects requiring a visually appealing, silk-like surface. TTYT3d - Silk - Yes DO3d - Silk - Yes - I think this is rebranded TTYT3D CC3d - Silk - Yes Bblife - Silk - Yes Hatchbox - Wood, Matte, Glitter - Yes - their wood does not print well (then again it may have needed drying), love their Glitter SunLu - Silk, ASA, PETG, PLA - Yes - Loving their ASA & PETG (cheap if you can catch on sale) Sunlu Silk PLA - 36. I haven't had any problems with any of it, honestly. eSun PLA/PLA+ both silk and regular. Posted by u/J3d1kn1ght1997 - 5 votes and 14 comments View community ranking In the Top 5% of largest communities on Reddit. Welcome to Bambu Lab! Here we discuss everything related to Bambu Lab 3D printers. I’m trying to print with nozzle at 190º and bed at 65º. Here are my machined details and slicers settings. Overall I find this filament to be very reliable which is not what I read on amazon reviews. I have used Jayo (Sunlu sub-brand) meta PLA and like it a lot (for the price), but it doesn’t perform well on the Generic High Speed PLA profile. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns. Sunlu silk gold PLA has impressed me, looks amazing with the textured build plate. Approx 43hours total print time for the three parts. 16kg) I buy packs of 3 from Amazon and if i ever have any problem i just contact amazon. For "fussier" PLA's (silk, rainbow, etc. I have a mini, so yeah, if you like the color, get it, try it. When the machine goes too fast it makes glossy or silky filament turn matte. 3 mm layer height, 0. Never had any issues with it, its dry out of the box and has a nice quality. Anyway, Printing Silk, I had very good success with 200 Degrees, bed temp of 45 to 50 (sometimes 65 for first layer for adhesion) on Qidi and Bambu Labs printers. 6 line width. Silk brands I avoid are 3Doo (clog heaven), Sunlu (looks terrible, layers do not adhere at all), eSun (explained above), and Eryone (not bad at all, but comparatively overpriced). I needed a silk white, I got Tronxy (never again, white silk PLA is hard to work with). 19 first layer heigh, 0. After the bed leveling is done, you go to the settings in the printer and there is a speed icon that says 100%, you just hit that and set it to Silent (which is 50%). Edit: Megatron is 25 cm tall. It prints faster than the Generic PLA preset (because the max volumetric speed is set higher). The goal is to create a resource that not only lists the manufacturer's recommended settings but also includes user-recommended settings based on actual experiences. its shipped from the same warehouse as Bambulab filament and spare Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. Maybe you need to adjust the temp a bit. And btw. eSun PLA+, Bambu PLA Basic and Bambu PLA Matte all calibrated at 0. Before Bambu added a preset for eSUN PLA+ (my "go to" filament), I used the Bambu PLA Basic preset. I have increased and decreased temp, increased flow, reduced and increased speed and this is what I am getting. I can break off the "temp floors" like a dry twig. Crank the Temps. My x1c handles these prints really nice and I just have them set to generic silk pla for settings and it comes out so clean. Nozzle (Print) Temperature – 215 to 235 degrees Celsius I'm using the same settings as I used with the sample filament that came with the printer, but the filament isn't sticking to the bed. Ive messed with temp. Initially I printed at 45mm/s, then when I saw the patterns from picture 2 develop, I tuned print speed to 85% but that didn't seem to impr Jan 19, 2023 · So, what are the optimal settings for Sunlu PLA (and PLA+) filament? Below, you can find the optimal settings for Sunlu PLA according to the manufacturer’s recommendations: Nozzle (Print) Temperature – 200 to 230 degrees Celsius; Bed Temperature – 60 to 80 degrees Celsius (or no bed heating) Print Speed – 50 to 100 millimeters per second We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. The solution that seemed to work the best was a combination of everything. For colors to start, I would avoid any silk filaments (shiny but can be brittle), marble/wood (former does better with a 0. I can typically print ABS, PLA, and PETG fine at 300mm/s but even printing the silk at 40mm/s with the darkwing dad settings and a . Now i have another kind of filament from sunlu and it works really well. As seen, this was the changeover print which was running fine until Sunlu stepped in, thought it might be to do with the pause so ran it again and ended up with this spongey mess. I have the Sunlu rose gold silk, what i found was that is runs better at lower temps, while other silks sometimes need higher temps. I can print it without issue using standard PLA settings, although a hotter nozzle seems to yield a shinier surface, but the layer adhesion always comes out very fragile. My Silk PLA (I use Sunlu and eSUN) preset is a copy of Generic PLA with following changes: nozzle temp reduced by 5C (to 215C) - this will vary per filament, do your own testing max volumetric speed 10mm 3 /s I use OrcaSlicer. Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. It's just this Silk. Printed easily but issue is nether color is accurate. I just switched to Sunlu PLA since it is considered one of the best and immediately started getting severe stringing. 08 layer height. But I’m asking about their meta line which requires lower temp and stronger apparently. Hi all, I'm trying to print Sunlu Silk PLA in a vase form on my CR-10 V2. On one hand they are beautiful, on the other they are hard to print with and are fragile. Using Cura slicer, I set line width to 0. Great for load bearing parts. Seems ok. It took me quite a while to figure out how to print with this filament because the matte print settings either had bad bed adhesion or stringing. But it works so I don’t mess with it. Lower first build height. Use whatever filament you want, then just adjust settings if you need to. Sorry if the title was confusing. It took me a week to get PETG Prusament in galaxy black perfected. Good evening all. Oh and also making sure to dry the filament before doing anything is very important, even if it is brand new and vacuum packed. Works great. You can use the PLA support material as a second filament to help a little. The one I have isn't from sunlu, but has a 30% content of real wood or smth. Ender3 pro with sunlu silver silk PLA. Nope. Create one and base it off of the Bambu Basic PLA profile. Thus, I recommend it to anyone who asks. 6 nozzle and reducing the temperature. As for settings, I can get really good results with some PLA with the following-but again, you'll have to adjust based on the specific filament. 95K subscribers in the BambuLab community. Sunlu pla meta for sure. Maybe get 8 hours of printing on it and it practically stops. This improved the quality and consistency of my prints. 031 For colored silk PLA, I normally get CC3D, but their availability is inconsistent. Do a small test at different speeds or look up recommended speed for silk. Does anyone have a good baseline temp for silk pla from sunlu? Depends on printer but around 194? I just stick to 200, and have pretty good results. I also tried other brands like AmazonBasics or Eryone but had mixed experiences. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Both my 2 rolls of black PLA clogged the nozzle after storing it for some time in the open lab. 02mm Print Speed： 50-100mm/s Platform Temp： Depends on the platform: No need or 60-80℃ Tensile Strength： 6-11kgf Melt Flow Rate： 7-9g/10min(190℃,2. I recently bought a spool of Sunlu White PLA+ through Amazon. I bought some Sunlu silk pla+ and I just can't get it to work. TTYT3d - Silk - Yes DO3d - Silk - Yes - I think this is rebranded TTYT3D CC3d - Silk - Yes Bblife - Silk - Yes Hatchbox - Wood, Matte, Glitter - Yes - their wood does not print well (then again it may have needed drying), love their Glitter SunLu - Silk, ASA, PETG - Yes - Loving their ASA & PETG (cheap if you can catch on sale) Settings 55mm/s, 200/60 temp, retract 8/60, layer height 0. What I have tried: We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I have bought 6kg Sunlu Meta recently - have only tried black so far -- for me it prints a little slower than Bambu Basic Green that came with the printer. I get most of my PETG from Sunlu and that prints really nicely. Retraction speeds, retraction amounts. The difference in HS and non-HS pla is the difference in PLA Pro and PLA Plus. If you want ultra fine detail, I would slow it down a little, the same as you would with standard PLA. Ive spent ALL FUCKING DAY messing with this shit, Sunlu silk PLA plus (rainbow). 0 Pressure advance: 0. Go SLOW for the first layer. The META filament feels like a good quality PETG filament in terms of finish quality and how much bending it can handle before breaking BUT it has the full most silk filaments have very pool layer adhesion - so if you want it to be somewhat rigid: multiple wall loops (5 or so) and a more hefty infill pattern don't print them with the generic PLA profile, use the Silk profiles The red is sunlu silk PLA, i struggled with that one, doesnt print very clear, has some artifacts. Everything else the same. only complaint is it can be kind of brittle, but looks nice. Almost all of the ugly steps are from where it interacts with supports. 6mm (on an 0. Only tested white so far though. 2, 5% gyroid fill. I just change the setting to “generic PLA” or “Generic PLA Silk” depending on if it’s shiny or not. I've used Bambu brand, TTYT3D, ESUN, Polymaker, SUNLU, and Amazon Basics. Reply reply dna-24 PLA Silk Hekp 2. Usually silk filament needs higher temperatures, 10C - 15C higher than normal PLA - both to get the shiny silk effect and any reasonable layer adhesion. Whenever you do this, I recommend setting the max temperature to +10 above the highest temperature recommended by the filament manufacturer and the lowest temperature to For Bambu Strong PLA: Manufacturer Recommended Settings, User Recommended Settings, Downloadable User Presets, etc. Printer - Anet A8 The normal speed setting for the bambu is already going to be significantly faster than your old printer. Still looking since I'm new to printing so haven't tried it yet. As a note, the P1P has 65 degrees in its default settings and X1C and P1S 55 degrees for Generic PLA. Great results with sunlu PLA, . As the title says Inrecently purchased som Sunlu silk PLA+ light gold. SunLu - Silk, ASA, PETG, PLA - Yes - Loving their ASA & PETG; I run their PLA using the BambuLab profile and it prints great (cheap if you can catch on sale) 3DBest Q - Wood - Yes - cheap filament prob won't buy again TIANSE - PLA - Yes - Cheap prob won't buy again CERPRiSE - PLA - Yes - Cheap prob won't buy again Eryone - Silk, Metallic, Matte, Glitter - Yes eSun - Silk, Matte, PLA+ - Yes - increased the temp on the generic PLA profile by 5-10 for the matte BambuLab - Matte, Basic, PC, ABS, Support W - Yes Amolen - Wood, Silk - Yes MatterHackers - PETG - Yes TTYT3d - Silk - Yes DO3d - Silk - Yes CC3d - Silk - Yes Bblife - Silk - Yes I’ve printed in the last 2years about 10kg of Sunlu PLA in various colors and I’m very satisfied. As noted, I've been perfectly happy using the presets for PLA and PETG. All the AMS and machine setup work more or less the same between Orca and BambuStudio. Silk PLA has elastomers added to it that give it the shiny texture, but they can make the PLA more flexible and the polymer chains more fibrous than normal raw PLA. I tried their pla plus too. My first and fastest attempt would be to set the heating bed temperature to 60-65 degrees. 23 g/cm³ Printer Temp = 210℃ Hot Plate Temp = 55℃ Retraction Distance = 3mm Retrac… Apr 22, 2023 · As @senator. Ive noticed a lot of recommendations just suck in general. I adjusted settings per manufacturer and some posts on here. I managed to get decent prints with the dreaded Sunlu Silk PLA but I cannot get supports to work with this filament. SUNLU PLA DENSITY = 1. I'm at 18mm³/s with Sunlu PLA Meta Black, Bambu Basic is configured to 21mm³/sI did however get Sunlu Matte (not Meta) Blue to print at 21mm³/s I use more silk than regular or matte pla. I haven't tried silk on the Creality hot end machines or the Sovol SV06 yet, just don't print much silk. The Sunlu filament I ordered before I bought my x1 came in a Bambu Lab box and my Bambu Lab accessories I ordered when I order my x1 combo came in a Sunlu box. Looking on the webpage, it gives the following, but I still have 1st layer defects. 5 Hours @ 0. ELEGOO PLA Pro user over here on a Flashforge Adventurere 5m. I’ve just grabbed my Winkle brand Silk and it’s not as “snappable” as regular PLA but it’s not a huge difference with regular PLA indeed (PLA+ formulations don’t really snap either due to the impact modifiers ofc). Need some retraction tweaking and Accel/Jerk testing to minimise ghosting from the direct drive. Flow Ratio = 0. I am looking for some baseline Temp settings for the Nozzle and Textured PEI Plate. Ultimately what made this work was to pick the Bambu PLA Silk profile and it came out perfectly. Fixed layer height, . 2. Bambu Labs filament is made by Sunlu, Esun, and polymaker. Silk filaments like to be printed slow - you get most of the glossy effect if you REALLY slow it down. If I forget to incorporate it in the gcode, I dial back the first print layer speed to 33% (relative to Cura's generic PLA slice settings). Ok, I see you meant regular pla, I use generic pla settings for sunlu pla+ with no issue. The bottom looks great but the tops always look awful. The formulations I know have around 10% petg content (needed to give the best silk shine as PLA is a bit milky). I have had issues with Sunlu PLA + Printing with FL Sun v400. I print a lot of Sunlu PLA Plus and I use the generic PLA profile as a base. . You'll want to hit the little gear knob in the left filament pane of the main control window so you can create a custom filament. Retraction Towers, Temperature Towers, and Marlin K Factor testing seem to end on these settings, but I can't help but feel like I've missed something here. Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now I print Sunlu pla+ using Bambu pla settings. I ordered silver, gold, and blue yesterday in the shiny silk pla and am super excited to see how those prints come out. 75 mm) Silk PLA. as in the fact that it's essentially just marketing. No shipping cost and the delivery is 5-10 days. I've had a few rolls of Sunlu PLA+ and it's on par with the Ankun I've got and maybe a bit better than the eSun I buy a lot of, which tends to break at the start of the tubes of my dryboxes if I leave it loaded for too long. 20mm diameter which I think it's monstrous diameter I just can't seem to solve the stringing on this roll of green silk PLA I just started using. For speed, I use the default settings, and only change them if I need to. I read silk pla is less durable but this seems ridiculous. Default prusa pla settings and speed. Unlike regular PLA, SILK PLA(PLA Plus) filaments are known for their excellent layer adhesion, smooth finish, and professional-looking prints that showcase intricate details. You can get deals with ~12€ per kg for some colours. Filament: SUNLU 3D Printer Filament (1. You might also look into getting OrcaSlicer to replace Bambu Studio. I found that prusament vanilla PLA prints best at 235C which is high for PLA. I have also used the Sunlu recycled PLA filament, a bit more matt than virgin material but prints ok and cheaper. The punk silk colors I got were surprisingly good and most of the PLA was gray, but I use that for prototyping. Everything looks fine during the print but the temptower itself is very brittle. Silk is different to usual PLA, but when it works it works fine and looks great. 12 resolution. 1-2 prints and clog. I am currently printing at 210 degrees with fairly good results but am curious what others may be using (Might work better). Is this common with Sunlu PLA+? I have been printing at 210 C, and have a filament wipe to clean the dust off the pla before it enters the Boden tube. Sunlu PLA and PLA+ are great and my go-to filament. I use latest Cura, with 210 temp, 40 print speed, 5 retraction. I have a P1S and i was wondering which settings you used? See full list on 3dprintbeast. 16 layer hight in Cura. Anyone printing Sunlu Silk PLA can you share your temp and reaction settings? I am printing on a CR-10s with E3D v6 all metal hot end at 205 and retraction at 2. CC3D We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 4mm layer width , ironing 22% 60mm/s and 1. The main difference is that silk isn't as strong as standard pla, if it's clogging I'd try raising the temperature and not the speed, there's a fine balance between speed and temperature, and generally the faster the speed the more temperature needed to I've read about the temperature in silk but if its specs are 215max. SunLu - Silk, ASA, PETG, PLA - Yes - Loving their ASA & PETG (can be a bit brittle); I run their PLA using the BambuLab profile and it prints great (cheap if you can catch on sale) 3DBest Q - Wood - Yes - cheap filament prob won't buy again TIANSE - PLA - Yes - Cheap prob won't buy again CERPRiSE - PLA - Yes - Cheap prob won't buy again We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Members Online I’m using a Bambu labs P1S with PLA and the supports keep on having these large gashes in them. Lately EVERY print either doesn't stick to the bed, or if it does stick it will clog in the nozzle like spaghetti. I for instance have a profile for Sunlu Matte Blue PLA - raised the max volumetric flow from 12mm³/s (generic PLA profile) to 21mm³/s after some testing, because the printer was capable to do so -- why not make use of its abilities. Currently best I can seem to get is: Bed: 60 First layer: 220 Other layers: 225 Extrusion multiplier: 1. Sunlu pla+ settings First time ever using Sunlu PLA+ and I am not getting good quality even though a ton of people are suggesting it. So I bought red and copper Sunlu silk to try to make some IronMan stuff. Previously I had clogging issues but that was solved by using zigzag infill with 0. Granted, I've only purchased black, matte black, neon green, and transparent PLA; black TPU; and transparent and black PETG, but all of the ZiRO has been phenomenal and I wouldn't be surprised if I got some good results with a 0. I see sharp corners lift all the time unless you have really stringent jerk/accel control. I ended up printing with 0. Done a few temp towers and retraction towers, and the only thing I have left to try is dropping my extrusion temp to 185 which was pretty clear of stringing on the temp tower, but I was getting pretty weak layer adhesion. I had this exact problem with Sunlu PLA+ and now have 60 degrees bed temperature, and currently have no problems with adhesion. Even the presets can be used in both, only that Orca is able to save more (and brings some QOL benefits, like the pressure advance setting on a filament profile basis). 5mm line spacing, gyroid infill 5%. In general, silk PLAs have poorer layer adhesion than normal PLA varieties, and need considerably higher temperatures. Like the default profile and the recommended ranges all differ. That's really discouraging hearing that Sunlu has that bad of a customer support. In the rest of the guide bellow, you are going to create a new filament profile for any new brand filament and type you purchase (Sunlu PLA Basic Matte as you can see is mine). 94 I've recently printed some Silk PLA for my X1C (not P1P), but BambuLab usually recommends to run it in Silent mode. The community of r/FixMyPrint will help you fix your 3D printer settings for the most optimal prints. Hi Everyone Im having some strange inconsistent extrusion issue using Sunlu Silk PLA on my CR-10s. Clear the clog, go back to printing, and it does it again. Same Result with OrcaSlicer and the same settings. Printed on an A1 mini The model is a travel case I’ve been working on for some diabetic insulin supplies Definitely create your own for each color. The best deal I've gotten was from Sunlu for "Blind Box" punk silk and PLA at $11/kg with free shipping, and if you use a coupon you can get it for less than $10/kg delivered. So it's weaker in some ways, stronger in some ways. As most people using this filament seem to have no issues with standard PLA settings and just lowering temps, there isn't much info around. It's cheap-ish (like $16-18, regularly on sale for down to $14) and is absolutely fantastic. Bed temp settings should be on the first tab of the second from the top button on the screen that’s on the printer. 16 layer it fails. It’ll run faster than regular PLA but it won’t hit speeds of things like eSun HS PLA or PolySonic. Mika3D. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Ender 3. It prints great with bambu pla settings except with temp 205C. I have a Question about using Sunlu PLA PLUS on the Bambu X1C and AMS. Compared to Bambu pla basic, the surface is more uniform both in shininess and smoothness, corners are noticably sharper too. Every cheap shitty filament I’ve run through my P1S has worked just fine. Printing parameter Property Typical value Nozzle temperature 205-215℃ Bed temperature 50-60℃ Cooling fan 100% Print at slower speed. Once the first layer is down, going as fast as you want should be fine. I needed translucent ivory, I got FilaCube (PLA+). Sunlu silk gold PLA 0. Those numbers are quite a bit higher than the defaults, so maybe there is something off with my printer? (No idea what it might be!) So I picked up SunLu PLA+ Silk and unlike all the other PLA/PLA+ I use, this stuff clogs like no tomorrow. So after slicing models with my Ender 3 V 3(You know, the ones that are supposed to do everything for you as far as cal goes) when laying down a first layer it almost looks as though the nozzel is too close causing ugly blobs and such. I am pulling out my hair trying to understand why my printer will do the first 5 layers printing Silk PLA and then it just stops extruding and won't push filament. The only change from my default settings for PLA on a RatRig VMinion was to increase the extrusion multiplier by 2%. I have printed about 150 grams, but I have had problems with it. Later through use I realised it can print fine all the way up to about 225/55 so I have been playing between these figures. This is with a 0. I even fucking recalibrated esteps/mm and and made sure the extruder was fine. So my only experience with kingroon was bad, and I guess I printed about 50 kg PLA from sunlu or Jayo without any problems. 12mm, printed at 215°C and with a bed temperature of 60°C. I then run the flow rate and flow dynamic calibrations. sgpnlh ifn cacn qox iirr vsytxp pjyyt kuyzgu ugbm oueum